Thursday, May 8, 2014

Porto, Portugal


For the third and final leg of my tip I took the high speed tilting train up to Porto (or Oporto as it is sometimes, but not always, written).  It is a city where one if the key highlights is the river Douro passing through it, and the bridges crossing it.  One of the bridges was designed by Gustave Eiffel (yes, of tower fame), and another similar one nearer the centre (the Luiz I Bridge) by a former colleague of his.  Both of these are metal arch bridges, the Luiz I bridge having a top deck for metro trains and pedestrians, a lower deck for cars - which often was backed up with traffic - and a narrower pedestrian walkway.


Over the years more bridges have been added, so much so that the main river cruise is sold as a "trip of 6 bridges".  They are all impressive in their own way and the trip was a fun way to spend an hour - if a little wet!  When the boat was going downstream spray from the waves got those (like me) with the best seats at the front!




The other thing Porto is famous for is port wine.  However, there is little in Porto itself related to it - the main distilleries are on the other bank of the river which technically is the town of Vila Nova de Gaia.  Here there are many to choose from - I picked Offley just because I shared the same final 3 letters of my surname with it!  You got to see the Port ageing, find out how it is made (the grapes are grown about 100km away up the Douro) and try a couple of glasses, which for €3 isn't bad value!



There are some buildings of significance worth looking round in Porto.  One of the most attractive ones in terms of its rooms is the Palacio da Bolsa.  Built (and still used) by the Chamber of Commerce, it never was a royal palace although some of the rooms may make you think otherwise.  Getting their early I was the only person on the tour, however given that you couldn't take photos you will have to take my word for how impressive the rooms are (or look it up online!)  Somewhere where you could take photos throughout is the Casa da Musica.  Opened 10 years ago, the modern concert hall is like a rock dropped on the edge of a street, designed fitting everything round the central concert hall.  With innovative use of materials such as glass within it, and traditional references such as tiled rooms, it was definitely worth the journey to look round. 




As well as these there are (of course) many churches as well.  Some have tiled outsides, others might be plainer but have insides that are covered in gold.  I also went round the cloisters in a couple of monasteries (including one attached to the Cathedral which also had some museum exhibits) and up the Torre dos Clérigos.  Attached to a church (but towering over it) this iconic narrow tower gives views across Porto.





Naturally I looked round many of the art galleries around the city.  The best of them was the Fundação de Serralves, which was a bit further out 9about a half hour walk from the Casa da Musica) but worth the visit.  Here there was a contemporary art museum with a number of interesting displays (all temporary exhibits).  It is though set in a park which is worth a visit in itself, for the sculpture, the nature and also for an Art Deco house that sits within it which is a fascinating visit, not least because (when I was there) it was totally empty and you could just wander round it!  Whilst in the museum I also became part of a piece of art, with a photographer asking to photo me through an art exhibit (which was a room of hanging threads).  As such you can't really tell that it is me that clearly, but if you see a distorted photo of a bald man somewhere then it might be me!



Of the other art venues, the Centro Português de Fotografia was impressive, with a number of interesting temporary exhibitions and also a museum showing a collection of old cameras.  The building itself was also interesting, I think having been a jail at one point in time, and impressively it was free to get in!  I also visited the Museu Nacional de Soares dos Reis which was a collection of more classical art.



Other places visited in Porto included the Crystal Palace park (like London, the actual palace is long gone), the Customs House, the Mercado do Balhao and main shopping streets.  Interesting places to look at included the Sao bento station, with its impressive tiled interior and the fantastic Livraria Lello bookshop - unfortunately you can't take photos inside but it has the most fantastic decoration (even before you look at the books!) and a staircase that folds back on itself.


Overall, Porto has been a great place of visit.  Whilst it has an impressive public transport system I have not really needed it as most places to visit are quite central and within walking distance.  Like Lisbon it is quite hilly - particularly getting to and from the banks of the river.  With lots of places to visit and attractive buildings it has certainly been a fitting place to conclude my tour through Portugal.



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